How I say goodbye to winter
This Northern Italian tradition helps me cope with season blues—and warms my soul
*Just a quick note to let you know that Italy’s Coffee Secrets is on a short break but I’ll be resuming posts at the end of the month. *
Last week, marked the last days of i Giorni della Merla
Before moving to Cremona years ago, I had never heard of it. But over time, I’ve come to love this tradition.
I don’t enjoy winter and so la merla helps me come to grips with it a bit better.
What are i Giorni della Merla?
Quite literally, it’s blackbird days. According to folklore, the last two days of January and the first day of February are supposed to be the coldest days of the year.
During this period, small communities around Cremona gather to honor their heritage, singing i Canti della Merla and burning il falò della vecia, a bonfire that symbolizes the end of winter and the hope for an early spring.
A Night of Songs and Fire
The songs are entirely in local dialect, so I still struggle to understand them, but their melodies have become familiar. Last week, my town came together to sing, wrapped in scarves and warmed by the glow of the fire. As I sipped homemade vin brulé, I felt grateful for these traditions.
As I said, I don’t love winter—my energy dips, and I often feel uninspired—but what better way to push through than by gathering with neighbors, sharing music, and keeping ancient customs alive?
Not to mention, these songs are a sobering reminder of how difficult winter could really be in the past.
The Magic of Crotta d’Adda
Nearby, in Crotta d’Adda, the tradition is even more magical. People crowd along the riverbank as singers perform Canti della Merla.
At a certain moment, another group of singers on the opposite side of the river from the nearby town answers back, creating a hauntingly beautiful exchange of voices. It’s the controcanto.
Then, the two choirs reunite to sing the Canzone di Martino e Marianna that stages a husband and wife argument.
The man, in the song, comes back home staggering drunk and the wife is furious. At the end, the couple make up with a final dance. No Merla would be complete without this song.
The ritual ends when a symbolic paper bird is set on fire in the middle of the river, floating across the water with lit candles sliding around it.
Like the bonfire, it represents the end of winter.
Why Traditions Matter
In our fast-moving world, preserving these customs feels more important than ever.
Agriculture has become industrialized, and peasant traditions are no longer a necessity. Yet taking time to honor where we come from still matters.
In Italy—especially in Lombardy—there’s a constant pull between the future and the love of tradition, between progress and preservation.
Of course, the resemblance to Groundhog Day is clear.
Here’s a video from the local tv, CR1. It’s got good closed captions.
Bring Giorni della Merla Into Your Home
If you want to connect with your very own Giorni della Merla, here’s the recipe for vin brulè and for castagne al latte, another specialty that we enjoy these winter days.
State caldi! ❄️
Do you have any end-of-winter traditions where you live? I’d love to hear about them—share in the comments!